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Post by mackaz on May 26, 2016 19:30:04 GMT 12
What I've got is a steel tub, 4 seater, no opening doors and no roof. Because I don't want a door post projecting above the top bodyline, I intend to build the seat as part of the body similar to model t I suppose. Questions are...the H point, is that measurement taken from where my backside will be, and will a piece of 50x50x5 be acceptable for me to attach the top and bottom anchorages. I need to be able to confirm this as I haven't built the seat yet, and I need to know the answer so I can proceed. Thanks in advance.
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Post by Leon on May 27, 2016 8:58:52 GMT 12
Send us (or your certifier) through some photos or a drawing, so we can clearly see what you've got in mind.
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Post by mackaz on May 28, 2016 14:54:51 GMT 12
Ok. Had a fellow rodder "in the business" around this morning and we did a few measurements. Even sitting on the floor and measuring h point from there I have no structure within 100 mm of the minimum 510mm, so if I add a base say 75mm thick that puts me 175mm away from anything! And he says a door post will hinder entry exit for rear passengers. A roll bar hinders entry/exit. He said I will have to run lap belts. I suppose it depends on what certifier says, who, up here, has basically disregarded any contact I've made, and when I managed to talk to him face to face, seemed completely uninterested
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Post by Leon on May 30, 2016 8:07:27 GMT 12
That's no good. Well, I guess for a start send us photos with measurements on them. There will be a solution out there to suit  |
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Post by mackaz on May 30, 2016 18:39:16 GMT 12
Thanks for your reply. I think biggest issue is I'm doing this on no budget, using my know how, contacts in the industry etc. it's a very basic car, a L200 chassis (added cross members as required in H.C.M) that's got custom made shorter rear leaves with rear mounts moved ahead and the remainder cut off. A warm 3.3 Commodore 6 and trimatic, standard mitsi sport diff. 17" Hilux steel wheels. Body was bought in two halves and I've built a floor and the section inbetween. It isn't particularly pretty but that's how I want it.(Just warning you) and I don't wanna spend anymore than is absolutely necessary
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Post by mackaz on Jul 2, 2016 19:51:40 GMT 12
Had a think about this, as per email with Leon I've decided to build a central "pillar" to hook onto. I'll do some measurements tomorrow and post up my idea to see if you guys think it will suffice.
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Post by mackaz on Mar 30, 2018 15:40:26 GMT 12
Thread dredge. I'm back at the position I was back in 2016 due to a hiccup in the pedalbox mounting. Anyhow the back seat idea has been scratched and I'm going to use 2 RJS harnesses or equivalent. Question is, do the top belts need to pull back directly or down on an angle? Support frame is going to consist of 2 uprights made out of 50x50x3 boxsection (attached to the interior of the tub framing) with a length of 38x3mm pipe between. This shall suffice ,or exceed specification from my interpretation of the H.C.M, correct?
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Post by Todd on Apr 3, 2018 9:06:24 GMT 12
Hi Mackaz, Keep in mind that harness belts can only be used in scratch-built vehicles, or with a Motorsport Authority Card. I assume yours will be a scratch-built, so should be ok, but if it is to be registered as a 1922 Buick, this idea likely won't work. The anchorage information can be found on page 17 of this document here: www.motorsport.org.nz/sites/default/files/motorsport/manual/Live%2035%20App%202.01%20Sch%20A_0.pdf (this is applicable, even if the vehicle is a scratch-built, and doesn't require an Authority Card). All other requirements from the harness manufacturer must be met also. If there's anything we can do to help with the pedal box side, just let us know. email tech@lvvta.org.nz |
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Post by mackaz on Apr 3, 2018 10:15:39 GMT 12
This is it here, old picture though. Pedalbox needed to be lowered on firewall, which has been done. I might need to bite bullet and try and talk to the cert fella up here....maybe some pictures to you guys might work too  |
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Post by Todd on Apr 4, 2018 11:13:39 GMT 12
Is that the factory 1922 Buick chassis?
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Post by mackaz on Apr 4, 2018 15:03:52 GMT 12
Is that the factory 1922 Buick chassis? Nope it's a 1979-80 Mitsubishi L200 Sport with shorter rear leaf springs, shackle mount moved along the chassis and about 750mm cut off the bum. |
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Post by Todd on Apr 5, 2018 11:27:51 GMT 12
Ok, so your vehicle will definitely be a scratch-built then, so you can go for the harness option.
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Post by mackaz on Apr 5, 2018 12:07:27 GMT 12
Ok, so your vehicle will definitely be a scratch-built then, so you can go for the harness option. Thanks for your response. So back to question. Do the belts need to pull directly back (as per how a dirt track speedway car has to) or down (like a rally car) link provided concerning the Motorsport regulations is unreadable on my phone |
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Post by mackaz on Apr 5, 2018 12:21:44 GMT 12
I borrowed a mates phone and had a read. As I haven't built the seat will it require properly race seats (unkeen for that as it won't suit the "look" I'm going for) can I build a solid back bench seat (built into the body out of a combination of 38mm and 25mm boxsection with either a ply or panelsteel base) with cutouts for the harnesses?
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Post by Todd on Apr 6, 2018 10:05:26 GMT 12
No, race-type seats are not required. You may create your own, assuming they meet the requirements.
It may pay to get a copy of the NZ Car Construction Manual, if you've not got one, as it will answer plenty of questions for you.
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